I recently created a free pattern for Pink Door Fabrics, called The Curvy Clutch. You can find the tutorial here as well as the download of the pattern here. I won’t bore you with details, but I’ll show you a bunch of pretty pictures instead. 😉
I had a request to write out the steps for the Chevron Quilt I made for a client, so here goes!
First of all, the quilt I made was a king size, measuring in at 104″ wide by 96″ tall. To create that sized quilt, I used 156 8-1/2″ blocks. Here’s the step by step on how to do your own! And this quilt can easily be sized to fit twin or full or even queen size beds as well. You can also resize the blocks to create a baby quilt!
I recommend starting with graph paper and colored pencils to layout your blocks mentally and on paper so you know which to piece together when the time comes. Number or label each fabric and make sure you stay organized.
Start by determining the yardage you’ll need. For example, on my king size quilt, I wanted 13 rows of different fabrics. That was honestly the hardest part; picking fabrics for the quilt. I cut 12 9″ squares for each row. I determined that I needed almost a full yard of fabric for each row, so that meant 13 yards of fabrics for the front alone. Except one row that had to be fussy cut, in which I bought 2 yards of that particular print.
From each yard, you’ll cut 9″ rows, and then subcut that into 9″ squares.
Check this chart for the number of rows and columns for the quilt you want to make. You’ll need to make sure you have enough squares cut.
Now you can start getting your blocks ready for piecing. You’ll want to mark a line on each block, diagonally corner to corner, with pencil to create the seam line. You won’t sew on this line. You’ll sew 1/4″ on both sides of it. I recommend chain piecing it to speed it along.
Refer to your graph paper or diagram to see which pieces you’ll be putting together for each row, and then place those two pieces right sides together. Sew 1/4″ from the pencil line you drew, on both sides. Repeat with all blocks. Make sure to follow your diagram!!!
Next, take your rotary cutter, or scissors, and cut along the pencil line.
Repeat with all blocks.
Press all blocks open, seams toward the darker fabric.
Repeat with all blocks.
TRIM EACH BLOCK TO 8.5″ SQUARE. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.
Once you have pressed all your blocks, lay out your quilt. Make sure all your chevrons line up and everything is in place. Then you can start sewing each row together, one by one, and then press all seams. Next, sew all columns together. You should have a completed quilt top at this point. Finish as desired.
You can download your own printable tutorial here. Have fun!
Yesterday, I sat down to sew something for myself. My friend Nicole had wanted to make the Noodlehead Cargo Duffle bag for some time and I loved it, too, so we both sat down (in our own homes) and got started! I picked up fabric from Fresh Squeezed Fabrics yesterday and got started last night.
I have to say, cutting took me FOREVER. It must have been close to an hour and a half before I was finally done, and I’m not sure why. This isn’t a difficult bag, by any means! However, I was glad to finally get started! The directions I don’t believe are geared toward beginnners so if you haven’t made a bag before or are newer to sewing, it might get a tad confusing. It’s easy enough to figure out, but prepare yourself.
My only peeve with the pattern, and this is minor, is the lack of a lining. I don’t like unlined bags, and sewing binding on all the seams inside sounded like too much trouble. So, I came up with a way to add a lining, fairly simply. Here goes!
Construct the bag as directed, but do NOT cover the seams with binding as instructed.
You’ll need a fabric for the inside lining, so make sure to get a yard of that.
From that lining fabric, you’ll cut (the same size as the original exterior pieces):
2 front/back pieces
2 zipper gusset pieces
1 bottom gusset
Now, take your zipper gusset pieces, and press one LONG edge over by 3/8″. I used a seam gauge for this and it worked well.
Take both zipper gussets (which both now have one long side folded over and pressed to 3/8″) and pin them to the bottom gusset. You’ll do this the same way you did the exterior pieces, so right sides together. The only difference here is that you don’t have a zipper keeping it all together so align one zipper gusset on the top of the bottom gusset, and one on the bottom, just like shown below.
Go ahead and sew BOTH sides of the zipper gussets to the two sides of the bottom gusset with a 1/2″ seam allowance, creating a tube, just like with the outer duffle.
Now you’ll need to make sure to mark all your centers on all the long sides, of both zipper gussets as well as front/back pieces and bottom gusset.
Align the centers as you did on the outer duffle, and pin well. Sew the zipper/bottom gusset to the front/back pieces just like before. Make sure you stop 1/2″ before the end of the front/back piece and then turn it to sew the next side.
You’ll end up with a complete lining piece that looks a lot like the completed duffle bag now.
Now here comes the tricky part. Turn your lining inside out. You’ll place inside your duffle bag, and align it with the zipper gussets. So, starting from one side, match up the edge of the lining zipper gusset with the stitch that is on the back of your zipper. You’ll want to cover that seam stitching to make sure it catches when you topstitch later.
Go crazy with the pinning on this part!
I recommend using a zipper foot for this next part, but as you can see from my photos, it’s not entirely necessary. Starting in the middle of the zipper gusset, topstitch your zipper 1/8″ from the edge, all the way down to the end of the zipper. Then turn it around and do the same for the remainder of the zipper gusset. This will be bulky, and possibly difficult, but do go slow and take it easy.
Repeat this step on the other side of the zipper.
Then you’ll have an attached lining BUT the top of the lining needs to be attached to the corners of the bag to prevent drooping. So set your machine to a small zig zag stitch with 1.5-2 in width and 0 for length. You don’t want the stitch to actually go anywhere, just side to side, to create a tack.
Do this on all four corners to ensure your lining stays in place and that’s it! So simple!